Miami

There's much more to South Florida than the neon-hued nostalgia of Miami Vice and pink flamingos. In fact, what used to be a relatively sleepy beach-vacation destination has awoken from its humid slumber, upped its tempo, and finally earned its place in the Palm Pilots of cutting-edge jet-setters worldwide. But don't be fooled by the hipper-than-thou celebrity-drenched playground known as South Beach. While the chic elite do, indeed, flock to Miami's coolest enclave, it is surprisingly accessible to the average Joe, Jane, or José. For every Phillippe Starck-designed, bank-account-busting boutique hotel on South Beach, there's a kitschy, candy-coated Art Deco one that's much less taxing on the pockets. For each Pan-MediterAsian haute cuisinerie, there's always the down-home, no-nonsense Cuban bodega (a small corner grocery store, usually with a walk-up window for ordering) offering hearty food at ridiculously cheap prices.

Beyond the whole glitzy, Access Hollywood-meets-beach-blanket-bacchanalia as seen on TV, Miami has an endless number of sporting, cultural, and recreational activities to keep you entertained. Our sparkling beaches are beyond compare. Plus, there's excellent shopping and other nightlife activities that include ballet, theater, and opera.

Leave Miami, be it for the Keys, the Gold Coast, or the Treasure Coast, and you'll expose yourself not only to more UV rays, but to a world of cultural, historical, and sybaritic surprises where you can take in a spring baseball game, walk in the footsteps of Hemingway, get up close and personal with the area's sea life, soak up the serenity of unspoiled landscapes, and much more.

Forget what you've heard about South Florida being Heaven's Waiting Room. That slogan is as passé as the concept of "early bird" dinners (which you can still get--they just no longer define the region). In fact, according to some people, South Florida is heaven. So what are you waiting for?

Best Dining Bets

Best for Celebrating a Big Deal: The Forge Restaurant on Miami Beach (tel. 305/538-8533) is a multichambered, ornately decorated (and priced) monument known for its decadent wines, steak, and fish.

Best Romantic Restaurant: La Vieille Maison, in Boca Raton (tel. 561/391-6701), is housed in a 1920s-era structure, with a stunning courtyard, superlative haute French cuisine, and intimate, private dining rooms.

Best Waterfront Dining: It's a tossup between Biscayne Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, but whichever you prefer, there are two restaurants that provide front-row seats to both. The Mandarin Oriental Hotel's global fusion restaurant, Azul (tel. 305/913-8258), faces the Miami skyline and beautiful, tranquil Biscayne Bay, while the Ritz Carlton Key Biscayne's Aria (tel. 305/365-4500) faces the Atlantic, but its Mediterranean cuisine could have you thinking you're floating off the coast of, say, Spain. Tough decisions, but both are winners. Louie's Backyard in Key West (tel. 305/294-1061) offers Caribbean cuisine and one of the best views of the gulf you'll ever have.

Best Restaurant Worth the Wait for a Table: The legendary South Florida institution known as Joe's Stone Crab Restaurant, in Miami Beach (tel. 305/673-0365), refuses to take reservations, but that doesn't stop people from clawing their way into the restaurant for a table--despite a wait that's often in excess of 3 hours.

Best Cuban Restaurant: There's always a debate on who has the best, most authentic Cuban cuisine, but for those of you who have never been to Havana, Miami's Versailles, in Little Havana (tel. 305/444-0240), is the quintessential Cuban diner, featuring enormo us portions at paltry prices.

Best Steak House: Boca Raton's New York Prime (tel. 561/998-3881) may be part of a South Carolina-based chain, but its steaks are a cut above the rest. The only problem may be scoring a reservation.

In addition to the Forge Restaurant, Christy's, in Coral Gables (tel. 305/446-1400), is the Miami carnivore's choice, with superb steaks and famous Caesar salads.

Best New World Cuisine: It's a tossup between the restaurants of the original founders of the palate-pleasing fusion of Florida and Caribbean (Floribbean) ingredients: Norman's, in Coral Gables (tel. 305/446-6767), owned by James Beard chef Norman van Aken, and Chef Allen's, in Aventura (tel. 305/935-2900), owned by chef Allen Susser. Whichever chef's cuisine you choose, they both do wonders with mangoes.

Sexiest Restaurant: Tantra, in Miami Beach (tel. 305/672-4765), brings a bit of exotic Marrakesh to South Beach with an aphrodisiac-inspired menu, grass-lined floors, and an equally sultry crowd that isn't afraid of getting in touch with its sensual side.

Best Scene: Rumi, in Miami Beach (tel. 305/672-4353), is a sexy, cacophonous global-fusion restaurant/lounge whose gorgeously prepared dishes are enough to rival the beautiful and sometimes famous people who convene here. Joia, also in Miami Beach (tel. 305/674-8871), exemplifies South Beach's spin on La Dolce Vita with its fine Italian cuisine, celebrity clientele, and requisite paparazzi hiding nearby in the bushes.

Best Sunday Brunch: Nemo, on Miami Beach (tel. 305/532-4550), turns its open kitchen into a help-yourself-to-anything, calorie-busting Sunday brunch of gourmet fare and insanely good desserts. Boca Raton's Mizner Park (tel. 561/395-0770) features a gourmet all-you-can-eat $19 brunch--an unheard-of value in swanky Mizner Park.

Best View: Big Fish, in Miami (tel. 305/373-1770), is all about gritty-chic, located on the Miami River, where tugboats and cargo ships slink by as you indulge in fresh fish and sip good Italian wine under the glow of the brilliant downtown skyline hovering above. Red Fish Grill (tel. 305/668-8788) is ensconced in Coral Gables' Matheson Hammock Park and located on the edge of a saltwater lagoon, a setting so blissfully distracting, you may forget to pay attention to what's on your plate.

Best Haute Cuisine: Mark's Las Olas, in Fort Lauderdale (tel. 954/463-1000), and Miami Beach's Mark's South Beach (tel. 305/604-9050) are both owned by celebrity chef Mark Militello, whose New American cuisine restores the faith of gourmands whose palates once belonged to the Pan-Asian Fusion movement.

Best People-Watching: The News Café, in South Beach (tel. 305/538-6397), practically invented the sport of people-watching, encouraging its customers to sit at an outdoor table all day if they want, lingering over the passing parades of people while sipping a cappuccino. The Delano Hotel's pricey Blue Door restaurant (tel. 305/674-6400), in Miami Beach, provides a front-row seat to the hordes of hipsters who flock there.

Best Comfort Food: Big Pink, in Miami Beach (tel. 305/532-4700), serves kitsch in large doses, featuring TV dinners served in trays. Fun and funky, and the food's pretty good, too.

Best Italian Food: Miami Beach's Macaluso's (tel. 305/604-1811) would make Tony Soprano very proud of his Italian heritage, thanks to Chef Michael's expertly prepared Staten Island-meets-SoHo cuisine. Tuscan Today Trattoria, in Fort Lauderdale (tel. 954/566-1716), churns out primo Tuscan fare in its imported-from-Italy wood-burning brick oven.

Best Mexican: The fresh, authentic Mexican fare at El Rancho Grande, in Miami Beach (tel. 305/673-0480), will have you swearing off Taco Bell forever.

Best Star-Studded Sushi Restaurant: Nobu, at the Shore Club Hotel in Miami Beach (tel. 305/695-3100), is known for its star sushi chef and owner, the legendary Nobu Matsuhisa, but the raw facts about this restaurant are as simple as its stellar clientele (which includes Madonna, among others): It's unquestionably the best sushi in town. For fabulous sushi minus the Hollywood vibe, Miami Beach's Shoji Sushi (tel. 305/532-4245) is at the top of the A-list.

Best Seafood: Grillfish, in South Beach (tel. 305/538-9908), is simple, unpretentious, and consistently serves the freshest fish in town--any which way you desire.

Best Late-Night Dining: In addition to the 24-hour News Café (see above and) and Big Pink (see above and), Ft. Lauderdale's Lester's Diner (tel. 954/525-5641) is a 24-hour institution, serving classic greasy-spoon fare at ridiculously cheap prices. The Floridian, also in Fort Lauderdale (tel. 954/463-4041), serves everything from eggs to steaks, 24 hours a day, but the vantage point for people-watching rates higher than the food.

Kitschiest Dining: Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House (tel. 305/947-4581) is a must for those looking for a retro-fabulous North Miami Beach experience, with a wait staff as old as the vinyl booths and the best corned beef on rye south of the Lower East Side. Green Turtle Inn, on Islamorada (tel. 305/664-9031), is an old-fashioned Florida Keys institution since 1947, featuring moderately priced steaks, stone crabs, and, yes, turtle, to the tune of campy pianist Tina Martin.

Best Hotel Bets

Best Historic Hotel: With a guest registry that reads like a who's who of history crossed with an engrossing whodunit, Miami's monumental, Mediterranean revivalist-style Biltmore Hotel (tel. 800/727-1926 or 305/445-1926) opened its doors in 1926. Guests ranging from Al Capone to the duke and duchess of Windsor loved the stately hotel so much that they never left, so say those who claim the hotel is haunted. Ghosts aside, this national landmark boasts the largest hotel pool in the continental United States as well as a 300-foot bell tower modeled after the Cathedral of Seville.

Best Cheap-Chic Hotel: West Palm Beach's Hotel Biba (tel. 561/832-0094) is a funky, single-story, converted 1940s motor-lodge-turned-boutique hotel featuring an oversized swimming pool, Asian gardens with sitting areas, a reflection pond, and the ultrahip Biba Bar. Rooms start at $79.

Best Celebrity-Saturated Hotel: The Delano (tel. 800/555-5001 or 305/672-2000) still reigns as Miami's number one celebrity magnet, attracting stars and starlets who you'd find at A-list Hollywood parties. The hotel's star power makes up for its sterile rooms.

Best Role-Playing Hotel: With rooms such as "Me Tarzan, You Vain," or "Best Whorehouse," South Beach's Pelican Hotel (tel. 800/7-PELICAN or 305/673-3373) takes the concept of escapism to an entirely new level.

Best Out-of-Place Bed-and-Breakfast: Located on the outskirts of gritty, bustling downtown Miami is the historic Miami River Inn (tel. 800/468-3589 or 305 /325-0045), housed in five restored clapboard buildings dating back to 1906. By the looks of this place, you could swear you were somewhere in New England--until you step out for a breath of the balmy air.

Best Hotel in a League of Its Own: Jules' Undersea Lodge (tel. 305/451-2353) in Key Largo really gives you the low-down on the full Keys experience by requiring all guests to scuba 30 feet underwater to get to their rooms, which are literally located under the sea, in the mangrove habitat of Emerald Lagoon.

Best Art Deco Hotel: The Raleigh Hotel (tel. 800/848-1775 or 305/534-6300) in Miami is the reigning diva of Deco, dating back to 1940. It features one of the most photographed palm-lined swimming pools, reminiscent of the days of Esther Williams.

Best Gatsby-esque Hotel: As you drive up to the Breakers (tel. 800/833-3141) in posh Palm Beach, you can't help but feel the spirit of Jay Gatsby beckoning you into this mammoth Italian Renaissance-style hotel.

Best Beach Hotel: Miami's Beach House Bal Harbour (tel. 877/782-3557 or 305/865-3551) was inspired by the great beach homes of the Hamptons, Nantucket, and coastal Maine, and when you stay here, you will feel like someone's houseguest rather than an anonymous hotel guest.

Best Inexpensive Hotel: It's hard to find a hotel on South Beach with both good value and excellent service, but the Crest Hotel Suites (tel. 800/531-3880 or 305/531-0321) delivers and peaks as one of Miami's best bargains and coolest hotels.

In Key West, the Grand (tel. 888/947-2630), despite its name, will not leave you with a huge tab at the end of your stay. The rooms in this hotel are bright and airy and the proprietor works hard to keep you happy.

The Blue Seas Courtyard (tel. 877/225-8373) in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea is a terrific deal that's just 1 block from the beach. It features rooms drenched in Haitian and Peruvian art, as well as a garden pool.

Best for Families: In Miami, the Sonesta Beach Resort Key Biscayne (tel. 800/SONESTA or 305/361-2021) is known for its complimentary children's programs led by trained counselors who supervise kids, grouped by age, in pool and beach activities and on field trips including dinner, movie, and museum excursions. Fees apply for meals/certain excursions.

In Fort Lauderdale, Marriott's Harbor Beach (tel. 800/222-6543) has a Beachside Buddies program for children ages 5 to 12, offering half-day and all-day children's activities that range from seashell collecting to hula-hoop contests. The 8,000-square-foot, free-form swimming pool, expansive sand beach, and instant access to water toys also keep kids entertained.

The Boca Raton Resort and Club (tel. 800/327-0101) has activity programs designed for distinct age groups: Boca Tots (ages 3-5), Boca Bunch (ages 6-11), and Boca Sport (ages 12-17). Upon registering children in the program, each parent is given a beeper with a 60-mile radius so that they may be contacted by their children at any time.

Best for Romance: In Miami, the Hotel Place St. Michel (tel. 800/848-HOTEL or 305/444-1666) is a cozy European-style hotel whose wood-floored dark-paneled rooms are adorned in antiques, transporting you from sunny Florida to gay Paris.

Imagine an intimate haven on your own private island and you've got Little Palm Island (tel. 800/343-8567), located just 3 miles offshore in the Florida Keys, accessible only by boat or seaplane, and quite possibly the closest thing to paradise, with only one telephone on the entire island.

In Palm Beach, modeled after a quaint English inn, the Chesterfield Hotel (tel. 800/243-7871) is absolutely seductive, thanks in part to its sexy, sultry Leopard Lounge, its cozy fireside library, and Churchill's Cigar Room.

Best Guesthouses/B&Bs: The Villa Paradiso Guest House (tel. 305/532-0616) may be smack in the heart of frenetic South Beach, but once you're inside you're worlds away, with rooms facing a sun-drenched courtyard and a host who is genuinely glad to see you, unlike some of the more attitudinal staff found in other nearby hotels.

In Fort Lauderdale, La Casa Del Mar (tel. 954/467-2037) is located right on the beach and offers cozily appointed rooms. The owners bend over backward to make sure your stay is a fantastic one.

Best Beaches

For Tranquility: Matheson Hammock Park Beach (tel. 305/665-5475) in South Miami features an enclosed man-made lagoon that is flushed naturally by the tidal action of the adjacent Biscayne Bay. The serene beach is surrounded by the bay's warm, calm waters and a backdrop of tropical hardwood forest.

The beach at Bahia Honda State Park (tel. 305/872-2353) in Bahia Honda Key is one of the nicest and most peaceful in Florida, located amidst 635 acres of nature trails and even a portion of Henry Flagler's railroad.

For Watersports: Hobie Beach (tel. 305/361-2833), located on the south side of Key Biscayne's Rickenbacker Causeway, is one of the most popular beaches for watersport enthusiasts, featuring jet-ski, sailboat, windsurfing, and sailboard rentals; shade, if necessary, from the Australian pine; and a sublime view of the picturesque downtown Miami skyline.

For People-Watching: Lummus Park Beach (tel. 305/673-7714) is world renowned, not necessarily for its pristine sands, but for its more common name of South Beach. Here, seeing, being seen, and, at times, the obscene, go hand in hand with the sunscreen and beach towels.

Not nearly as scenic, but still heavily populated, Fort Lauderdale Beach (tel. 954/468-1597) is the site of many a bacchanalian Spring Break, Frankie and Annette, and now, an eclectic--albeit calmer--mix of young, buff beach bums.

For Nature Lovers: MacArthur Beach (tel. 561/624-6950), in West Palm Beach, is considered by many nature enthusiasts to be the most beautiful nature park in South Florida, with a nice stretch of beach set against a lush and diverse background of foliage, plus a state-of-the-art nature center and renowned sea turtle awareness program.

For Nude Sunbathing: For that all-over tan, the place to be is the north end of Haulover Beach (tel. 305/944-3040), nestled between the Intracoastal Waterway and the ocean. A gay, nude beach is also there, as is an area for nude volleyball.

For Seclusion: The producers of Survivor could feasibly shoot their show on the ultra-secluded, picturesque, and deserted Virginia Key (tel. 305/361-2749), on Key Biscayne, where people go purposely not to be found.

John U. Lloyd State Park (tel. 954/923-6711) in Dania Beach is unfettered by high-rise condos, T-shirt shops, and hotels, and remains intact with an untouched shoreline surrounded by a canopy of Australian pine to ensure that your seclusion is, indeed, highly guarded.

For Gay Beachgoers: South Beach's 12th Street Beach (tel. 305/673-7714) is the beach of choice for gay residents and travelers who come to show off just how much time they've spent in the gym, and, of course, catch up on the latest gossip and upcoming must-attend parties and events. Oftentimes, this beach is the venue for some of the liveliest parties South Beach has ever seen.

For Kids: Miami's Crandon Beach (tel. 305/361-5421) is extremely popular for families with kids because of the shallow water created by a neighboring sandbar. Convenient parking, picnic areas, a winding boardwalk, and a multi-ethnic mix of families grilling, dancing, and relaxing are the benchmarks of this beach.

Best Party Beach: In Key Biscayne, Crandon Park Beach, on Crandon Boulevard, is National Lampoon's Vacation on the sand. It's got a diverse crowd consisting of dedicated beach bums and lots of leisure-seeking families, set to a soundtrack of salsa, disco, and reggae music blaring from a number of competing stereos. With 3 miles of oceanfront beach, bathrooms, changing facilities, 493 acres of park, 75 grills, 3 parking lots, several soccer and softball fields, and a public 18-hole championship golf course, Crandon is like a theme park on the sand. Admission is $2 per vehicle. It's open daily from 8am to sunset.

Best Beach for People-Watching: Lummus Park Beach, a.k.a. Glitter Beach, runs along Ocean Drive from about 6th to 14th streets on South Beach. It's the best place to go if you're seeking entertainment as well as a great tan. On any day of the week, you might spy models primping for a photo shoot, nearly naked (topless is legal here) sun-worshippers avoiding tan lines, and an assembly line of washboard abs off of which you could (but shouldn't) bounce your bottle of sunscreen. Bathrooms and changing facilities are available on the beach, but don't expect to have a Cindy Crawford encounter in one of these. Most people tend to prefer using the somewhat drier, cleaner bathrooms of the restaurants on Ocean Drive.

Best Swimming Beach: The 85th Street Beach, along Collins Avenue, is the best place to swim away from the maddening crowds. It's one of Miami's only stretches of sand with no condos or hotels looming over sunbathers. Lifeguards patrol the area throughout the day and bathrooms are available, though they are not exactly the benchmark of cleanliness.

Best Windsurfing Beach: Hobie Beach, on the side of the causeway leading to Key Biscayne, is not really a beach, but an inlet with predictable winds and a number of places where you can rent windsurfers. Bathrooms are available.

Best Shell-Hunting Beach: You'll find plenty of colorful shells at Bal Harbour Beach, Collins Avenue at 96th Street. There's also an exercise course and good shade--but no lifeguards, bathrooms, or changing facilities.

Best (Ahem) All-Around Tanning Beach: For that all-over tan, head to Haulover Beach, just north of the Bal Harbour border, and join nudists from around the world in a top-to-bottom tanning session. Should you choose to keep your swimsuit on, however, there are changing rooms and bathrooms.

Best Surfing Beach: Haulover Beach Park, just over the causeway from Bal Harbour, seems to get Miami's biggest swells. Go early to avoid getting mauled by the aggressive young locals prepping for Maui.

Best Scenic Beach: Matheson Hammock Park Beach, at 9610 Old Cutler Road in South Miami (tel. 305/665-5475), is the epitome of tranquility, tucked away off of scenic Old Cutler Road in South Miami. And while it's scenic, it's not too much of a scene. It's a great beach for those seeking "alone time." Bathrooms and changing facilities are available.

Best Family Beach: Because of its man-made lagoon, which is fed naturally by the tidal movement of the adjacent Biscayne Bay, the waters of Matheson Hammock Park Beach are extremely calm, not to mention safe and secluded enough for families to keep an eye on the kids.

Best Beach for Seculusion: Virginia Key on Key Biscayne, where people go when they don't want to be found. It's also incredibly picturesque.

Favorite Experiences

Driving Along Florida A1A: This oceanfront route, which runs north up Miami Beach, through Sunny Isles and Hollywood, and into Fort Lauderdale (starting at Ocean Dr. and First St. in Miami and merging onto Collins Ave. before running north), embodies the essence that is South Florida. From time-warped hotels steeped in Art Deco kitsch to multimillion-dollar modern high-rises, A1A is one of the most scenic, albeit heavily trafficked, roads in all of Florida.

South Beach Nightlife: If you can handle it, you can boogie down until the sun comes up in cavernous, pulsating dance clubs, which are considered amongst the best in the world. If dancing isn't your thing, consider the restaurant-as-nightclub concept defined by places such as Tantra, a grass-floored restaurant/lounge in which Marrakesh meets Miami Beach, or Rumi, a swank resto-lounge in which the likes of Jennifer Lopez and members of Mötley Crüe mix with a colorful crowd of local and international hipsters. Where else can us ordinary folk brush elbows with--or spill Cosmopolitans on--Hollywood starlets, entertainment moguls, and living legends but in South Beach's hot clubs, bars, and restaurants, many of which don't get going until the crack of dawn?

Airboat Ride Through the Outskirts of the Everglades: Unfettered by jet skis, cruise ships, and neon bikinis, the Everglades are Florida's outback, resplendent in their swampy nature. The Everglades are best explored either by slow-moving canoes that really get you acquainted with your surroundings or via an airboat that can quickly navigate its way through the most stubborn of saw grass while providing you with an up-close and personal (as well as fun) view of the land's inhabitants, from alligators and manatees to raccoons and Florida panthers.

Dining at Big Fish Restaurant on the Miami River: Some consider dining on the Miami River to be industrial chic; others consider it seedy in a Miami Vice sort of way. However you choose to look at it, by all means do look at it; the sleepy Miami River is nestled below the sweeping downtown Miami skyline, reminding you that even though you're in a major metropolis, things in this often-frenetic city are capable of slowing down to a more soothing pace.

Vizcaya Museum and Gardens: Built in 1916, this Italian Renaissance-style manse on Biscayne Bay in Miami features 34 rooms of antiques, art, and tapestries; 10 acres of Italian gardens, statues, and fountains; a new orchid display; and a picture-perfect view of the skyline and Key Biscayne.

Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House: You will wait on line at Miami Beach's landmark diner, but it's never dull, as the cacophony of mostly Northeastern U.S. accents will keep you entertained until you are seated in what seems to be an ancient vinyl booth. The octogenarian waitress will serve you corned-beef sandwiches, brisket, or potato pancakes, and, if you're lucky, she may tell you about the time Sinatra and his Rat Pack came in way back when.

Moonlight Concerts at the Barnacle State Historic Site: Once a month, on or near the full moon (except during July and August), the Barnacle State Historic Site hosts a concert in the backyard of their charming 1908 Coconut Grove bungalow built on 5 acres of waterfront property. Listeners are welcome to picnic and bask in this sublime setting for a mere $5.

Midnight Snacking at Versailles: This iconoclastic, gaudy Cuban diner in the heart of Miami's Little Havana is humming with the buzz of old-timers reminiscing about pre-Castro Cuba, local politicos trying to appease them, and a slew of detached people only there for the fantastically cheap and authentic Cuban fare. Much like its French namesake in whose image it's been literally mirrored, Miami's Versailles provides a palatial view of Miami's ever-changing Cuban landscape.

Lunch at News Café on Ocean Drive: The quintessential South Beach experience, lunching at News Café is more of a spectator sport than a dining experience. What the Big Mac is to McDonald's, people-watching is to News Café, whose Ocean Drive location is one of the best sidewalk spots from which to observe the wacky, colorful mix of pedestrians on parade.

Relishing the View from Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Recreation Area: You haven't truly seen South Florida until you've checked out the view from the southern point of Key Biscayne. Whether it's the turquoise water or the sight of Stiltsville--seven still-inhabited aquatic cabins dating back to the 1930s, perched smack in the middle of the Biscayne Channel--it may take a little coercing to get you to leave.

Scuba Diving off Jupiter Beach: In 1988, Jupiter Beach lifeguard Peter Leo spotted an anchor and a cannon while on his routine morning swim. Turns out, they belonged to what is believed to be the shipwreck of a Spanish galleon dating back to the 16th or 17th century. Giving literal meaning to South Florida's Treasure and Gold coasts, this wreck is worth holding your breath for.

Happy Hour at Mai Kai: Polynesia meets Fort Lauderdale at Mai Kai, the trippiest tiki hut this side of Tahiti, with its sarong-clad bartenders, a fiery hula show, and an exhaustive menu of frozen concoctions.

Discovering Your Inner Flipper at the Dolphin Research Center: Learn to communicate with and touch, swim, or play with the mammals at the nonprofit Dolphin Research Center in Marathon Key, home to a school of approximately 15 dolphins.

Eyeing the Estates on Palm Beach: The winter playground for the Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous set, Palm Beach is lined with jaw-dropping palatial estates. While many of them are hidden behind towering shrubbery, head south on South County Road, from Brazilian Avenue, where you will see some of the most opulent homes ever built. Make sure someone holds the steering wheel if you're driving, because you will do a double take.

Lounging Poolside at the Delano: In addition to tanning, the scene here is about striking a pose and pretending not to notice the others doing so. If you're staying at Miami's Delano, and if you're savvy enough to score one of the luxe lounges, prepare to overhear some interesting conversations between the movers and shakers who bake here. Though the hotel itself is overrated, the pool is worth every bit of its splash and flash.

Boating Through the Intracoastal Waterway: The waterway that connects the natural bays, lagoons, and rivers along Florida's East Coast snakes around from the Florida-Georgia border all the way to the port of Miami. A ride through the Fort Lauderdale Intracoastal provides a sublime view of million-dollar waterfront houses.

Having a Postbeach Beer at Jimbo's on Key Biscayne: Who knew that a dive housed in a wooden shack in the mangroves of Virginia Key, serving beer from a cooler, would become one of Miami's best-kept local secrets? That is, until now.

Salsa Lessons at Bongo's Cuban Cafe: If the only salsa you're familiar with is the kind you put on your tacos, get over to Bongo's, the hottest salsa club north of Havana, where Miami's most talented salsa dancers will teach you how to move your two left feet in the right direction.

Best Resort Spas

Agua Spa at the Delano, 1685 Collins Ave., Miami Beach (tel. 305/673-2900), is sublimely situated on the rooftop of the hotel, overlooking the Atlantic, and features stellar treatments such as the milk-and-honey massage that make it popular with celebs and laywomen alike. Lose yourself in a tub of fragrant oils, algae, or minerals for a 20-minute revitalization, or try the collagen, mud, and hydrating masks.

The Ritz-Carlton Spa, Key Biscayne, 415 Grand Bay Dr., Key Biscayne (tel. 305/648-5900), is a sublime 20,000-square-foot West Indies-colonial style Eden in which you can treat yourself to over 60 treatments, including the Key Lime Coconut Body Scrub and the Everglades Grass Body Wrap. For a real splurge, the Fountain of Youth treatment is a 6-hour indulgence featuring a facial, massage, manicure, pedicure, shampoo, styling, and lunch served on the ocean terrace.

Turnberry Isle Resort & Club, 19999 W. Country Club Dr., Aventura (tel. 305/932-6200), offers a sprawling 25,000-square-foot spa with a massive menu of treatments, Finnish saunas, Turkish steam rooms, turbulent whirlpools, and bracing cold plunge tubs that are sure to give you an uplifting jolt.

Spa Internazionale at Fisher Island, 1 Fisher Island Dr., Fisher Island (tel. 800/537-3708), is the city's poshest spa, known for its picturesque setting and the Guinot Paris Hydradermie facial--a 75-minute moisturizing and cleansing facial that leaves the skin silky smooth.

Spa of Eden at the Eden Roc Resort, 4525 Collins Ave., Miami Beach (tel. 304/531-0000), offers salt glows, chamomile polishes, seaweed wraps, and Swedish and shiatsu massages in a spectacular setting overlooking the ocean.

Away Spa at the W South Beach, 1701 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, (tel. 877-WHOTELS). At press time, we were still awaiting the grand opening of Away, but it will no doubt offer stiff competition to South Beach neighbor Agua. The spa will offer eight different facials, numerous styles of massage (including Hot Stone), and three body scrubs and wraps. There are also alternative healing services like Reiki and craniosacral therapy, herbal mineral baths, and exotic body treatments such as the Star of India (a 90-min. facial-massage-wrap combo), and, for the truly indulgent, the nearly 2-hour Javanese Lulur, which originated as a prewedding service for the princesses of Java.

The Best Websites

General South Florida Sites - For entertainment, dining, sports, and festival information produced in cooperation with the Sun-Sentinel: www.southflorida.digitalcity.com.

The site of Florida's official tourism bureau, this extensive website includes information on attractions, beaches, golfing, and water sports, as well as airport information, weather, and maps: www.flausa.com.

This site links to more than a dozen convention bureaus throughout the state. Most of the sites include information on attractions, dining, lodging, and shopping: www.facvb.org.

Detailed information on state parks, right down to what kind of wildlife hangs out where, and the lowdown on fees, attractions, and facilities: www.dep.state.fl.us/parks.

A nicely organized guide to theme parks, marine attractions, museums, boating, fishing, and much more, as well as advice for first-time visitors to the Sunshine State: www.see-florida.com.

City Guides, Dining & Entertainment Sites--A collection of websites regarding Miami, all with links to other relevant websites: gomiami.about.com.

For listings and reviews for Miami arts and entertainment events, restaurants, shopping, and attractions: miami.citysearch.com.

A well-rounded guide to Key West, including an events calendar and extensive listings for attractions, sightseeing and ecotours, theater, art galleries, dining, lodging, fishing, and shopping: key-west.com.

A guide to gay-friendly Key West: www.gaykeywestfl.com.

Featuring local news and up-to-date information on events and entertainment options from the Miami Herald: www.miami.com.

This site offers reviews and listings for attractions, entertainment, restaurants, hotels, and shopping, and includes categories for kids, and gays and lesbians. Unlike some other city guides, Time Out: Miami makes a concerted effort to cater to tourists as well as locals: www.timeout.com/miami.

Miami's leading alternative weekly includes features and listings for music, theater, film, and more: www.miaminewtimes.com.

Here's a nice roundup of music, theater, sports, and dining choices in South Florida: www.sun-sentinel.com/showtime.

Listings and reviews for Miami. Each restaurant has a capsule review and ratings based on surveys received from site users. For many restaurants, only two or three people have bothered to submit ratings, so they may not be statistically significant. However, comments can be instructive, as CuisineNet's readers discuss service, parking, free birthday desserts, and a host of other insightful topics: www.cuisinenet.com.

Reviewing top restaurants, Zagat has made a name for itself as the people's choice, as its listings are based on extensive surveys: www.zagat.com.

And last but not least, Miami Beach's favorite realtor, Yolande Citro, who services many clients including the stars and celebrities with their real estate purchases and sales: www.yolandecitro.com

The Rest Of The Best

Best Museum: A collector's dream come true, Miami's Wolfsonian is a treasure trove of miscellany (a matchbook that once belonged to the King of Egypt) and artifacts hailing from the propaganda age of World War II.

Best Cultural Experience: A walk through Little Havana is a fascinating study in the juxtaposition and fusion of two very vibrant cultures in which pre-Castro Cuba is as alive and well as the McDonald's right next door.

Best Cheap Thrill: Riding the Metrorail in Miami. Originally created to relieve traffic congestion, the city's billion-dollar transportation network is hardly used by commuters and is little more than Miami's own version of Disney's Monorail. Nonetheless, for little more than a dollar, you can tour many of Miami's neighborhoods and see much of its skyline without having to stop, look at a map, or ask for directions.

Best Snorkeling Spot: Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, Bahia Honda State Park. With 5.3 square miles of gorgeous coral reef, rock ledges up to 35 feet tall, and a colorful and motley marine community, you may never want to come up for air.

Best Public Golf Course: Miami's Biltmore Golf Course, Biltmore Hotel. If it's good enough for former President Clinton, it's good enough for those of you who don't travel with a bevy of Secret Service agents. But the real question is: Are you good enough for the course? The sixth hole is notoriously difficult, with distracting water hazards among other difficulties. Nonetheless, it's an excellent course with picture-postcard setting.

Best Dive Bar: Jose Cuervo's Underwater Bar. In May 2000, the legendary tequila company celebrated Cinco de Mayo by submerging an actual, $45,000 full-size bar and six stools about 200 yards off South Beach's First Street beach. For expert divers, this bar is more than your average watering hole.

Best Place to Satisfy Your Morbid Curiosity: The Mystery, Murder, and Mayhem Bus Tour. Not that we're implying anything here, but Miami is a haven for people like O.J. Simpson and, at one time, Al Capone. It's a place where shady characters come to reinvent themselves. However, at times, they also tend to reincriminate themselves. See the spots where some of these criminals fell off the wagon--it's morbidly delicious.

Best Latin Club: Although the predominant language spoken at Miami's La Covacha is Spanish, the only word you really need to know here is agua, because you will certainly need it after working up a sweat on the dance floor. Music--the best Latin music in town--is, in fact, the common language at this rustic, open-aired Latin dance club that features salsa, merengue, and Latin rock.

Best Dance Club: Club Space. South Beach devotees said that downtown Miami would never make it as a club hub, but they were wrong. A 24-hour liquor license, stellar DJs, and a dance room the size of four converted warehouses make Club Space Miami's best dance club. Sorry, South Beach.

Best Offbeat Experience: Although it's little more than a tropical shantytown, Jimbo's, located at the tip of Virginia Key, is consistently fantastic, with no-frills smoked fish, beer out of the bucket, and colorful locals, all of which make it the best offbeat and off-the-beaten-track experience in South Florida.

Planning A Trip

Peak season in South Florida runs from October to March. And while peak season is the most popular time to visit, pre- and postseason offer you a less congested, less expensive travel experience. Regardless of when you choose to travel, a little advanced planning will help you make the most of your trip.

When To Go

Contrary to popular belief, the notion of sunny Florida isn't always 100% correct. While the term is hardly an oxymoron, when it comes to weather, sunny Florida undergoes major mood swings. While it may be pouring on the ocean side of Miami Beach, on the bay side, the only thing pouring down may be UV rays.

Rain showers aside, the most pressing concern for every South Florida visitor is the dreaded "H" word--the unpredictable, unstoppable hurricane. Official hurricane season is from June to November, and while the hurricane's actual pattern is unpredictable, for the most part, the meteorologists at the National Hurricane Center in Coral Gables are able to give fair enough warning so that people can take proper precautions. One of the safest places during a hurricane happens to be in a hotel, because most hotels are sturdy enough to withstand high winds and have generators in case of power failures.

For many people, the worst time to come to South Florida is during the summer, when temperatures are usually scorching, humidity is oppressive, and rain at 4pm is a daily occurrence. Wintertime in South Florida is spectacular--not too hot, not too cool. Temperatures can, however, dip down into the low 50s during a cold front.

Weather aside, peak season in South Florida means more tourists, snowbirds, and models--and the influx of celebrities, who also call South Florida their winter home.

In the summer, South Florida practically comes to a standstill as far as special events, cultural activities, and overall pace is concerned. Locals love it; it is their time to reclaim their cities. Tourists may want to take advantage of the summers down here as long as they can stand the heat. If you can brave the temperature, you will not have to face the long lines in restaurants and at attractions that you will encounter during peak season. For some people, however, the lines and the waiting are all part of the allure of South Florida, as they provide an opportunity to see and be seen.

January

FedEx Orange Bowl Classic, Miami. Football fanatics flock down to the big Orange Bowl game (oddly taking place not at the Orange Bowl in seedy downtown, but at the much more savory Pro Player Stadium) on New Year's Day, featuring two of the year's best college football teams. Tickets are available from March 1 of the previous year through the Orange Bowl Committee (tel. 305/371-4600), but call early as they sell out quickly.

Polo Season, Palm Beach. Join the crisp and clean Ralph Lauren-clad polo fanatics (including stars and socialites) at the Palm Beach Polo and Country Club for polo season. Call tel. 561/793-1440 for details. Begins in early January.

Three Kings Parade, Miami. Miami's Cuban community makes up for the fact that Castro banned this religious celebration over 25 years ago by throwing a no-holds-barred parade throughout the streets of Little Havana's Calle Ocho neighborhood, usually the first Sunday of January. Call tel. 305/447-1140.

Art Deco Weekend, South Beach. Gain a newfound appreciation for the Necco-wafered Art Deco buildings, Deco furniture, history, and fashion at this weekend-long festival of street fairs, films, lectures, and other events. Call tel. 305/672-2014. Mid- to late January.

Martin Luther King Jr. Day Parade, Miami. The culmination of the week's celebration of Dr. King's birthday, this parade occurs in the not-so-great neighborhood of Liberty City, along NW 54th Street, between NW 12th and 32nd avenues. For information, call tel. 305/636-1924. Mid-January.

Taste of the Grove Food and Music Festival, Coconut Grove. Brave massive crowds of hungry folk at this fund-raising festival featuring booths from various neighborhood eateries hawking their goods for the price of a few prepurchased tickets. Call tel. 305/444-7270. Dates vary from mid-November to mid-January.

Royal Caribbean Golf Classic, Key Biscayne. Watch as pro golfers tee off for over $1 million at this tournament played on the scenic Crandon Park Golf Course. Call tel. 305/374-6180. Late January.

Palm Beach International Art and Antiques Fair, West Palm Beach. With antiques and art older than some of Palm Beach's very own residents, this fair has become a premier stomping ground for domestic artifacts. Call tel. 561/220-2690. Late January or early February.

Key West Literary Seminar, Key West. Literary types get a good reason to put down the books and head to Key West. This annual 3-day event features a different theme every year, such as "the Memoir" or "Science Fiction," and a roster of incredible authors, writers, and other literary types such as Joyce Carol Oates, Barbara Ehrenreich, and Jamaica Kincaid. The event is so popular it sells out well in advance, so call early for tickets (available for individual lectures or events, or the entire conference). For information, call tel. 888/293-9291 or visit www.keywestliteraryseminar.org. January 9 to 13, 2003.

February

Miami Film Festival. Though not exactly Cannes, the Miami Film Festival, sponsored by the Film Society of America, is an impressive 10-day celluloid celebration, featuring world premiers of Latin American, domestic, and other foreign and independent films. Actors, producers, and directors show up to plug their films and participate in Q&A sessions with the audiences. Call tel. 305/377-FILM. Early to mid-February.

Everglades Seafood Festival, Florida City. What seems like schools of fish-loving people flock down to Florida City for a 2-day feeding frenzy, in which Florida delicacies from stone crab to gator tails are served from shacks and booths on the outskirts of this quaint old Florida town. Free admission, but you pay for the food you eat, booth by booth. Call tel. 941/695-4100. First full weekend in February.

Homestead Rodeo, Homestead. One of South Florida's only rodeo shows, this one features clowns, competitions, and bucking broncos. Call tel. 305/247-3515. Early February.

Coconut Grove Arts Festival, Coconut Grove. Florida's largest art festival features over 300 artists who are selected from thousands of entries. Possibly one of the most crowded street fairs in South Florida, the festival attracts art lovers, artists, and lots of college students who seem to think this event is the Mardi Gras of art fairs. Call tel. 305/447-0401 for information. Presidents' Day weekend.

Miami International Boat Show, Miami Beach. Agoraphobics beware, as this show draws a quarter of a million boat enthusiasts to the Miami Beach Convention Center. Some of the world's priciest megayachts, speedboats, sailboats, and schooners are d isplayed for purchase or for gawking. Call tel. 305/531-8410. Mid-February.

Winter Equestrian Festival, West Palm Beach. With over 1,000 horses and three grand-prix equestrian events, the Palm Beach Polo Club's winter festival is an equestrian's dream. For information, call tel. 561/798-7000. Late February.

Doral Ryder Golf Open, West Miami. This prestigious annual golf tournament swings into Miami at the legendary courses at the Doral Resort and Club. Call tel. 305/477-GOLF. Late February.

Hatsume Fair, Delray Beach. A 2-day fair celebrating the first buds of spring in a state that barely has seasons may seem like an odd notion, but the Hatsume Fair takes place at the Morikami Japanese Museum and Gardens--a place where visitors can appreciate truly exotic flora and fauna. Call tel. 561/495-0233. Last weekend in February.

March

Winter Party, Miami Beach. Gays and lesbians from around the world book trips to Miami as far as a year in advance to attend this weekend-long series of parties and events benefiting the Dade Human Rights Foundation. Travel arrangements can be made through Different Roads Travel, the event's official travel company, by calling tel. 888/ROADS-55, ext. 510. For information on the specific events and prices, call tel. 305/538-5908 or visit www.winterparty.com. Early March.

Italian Renaissance Festival, Miami. Villa Vizcaya gets in touch with its Renaissance roots at this festival, which features strolling musicians, stage plays, and a cast of period-costumed characters who do their best to convince you that you're in a time warp. Call tel. 305/250-9133. Mid-March.

Miami Gay & Lesbian Film Festival, Miami Beach. This 10-day event is the Sundance of festivals for gay and lesbian films and filmmakers. It features an impressive roster of independent and commercial films, plus appearances by some of the films' directors, actors, and writers. Call tel. 305/532-7256. Mid-March.

Calle Ocho Festival, Little Havana. What Carnavale is to Rio, the Calle Ocho Festival is to Miami. This 10-day extravaganza, also called Carnival Miami, features a lengthy block party spanning 23 blocks, live salsa music, parades, and, of course, tons of savory Cuban delicacies. Those afraid of mob scenes should avoid this party at all costs. Call tel. 305/644-8888. Mid-March.

Grand Prix of Miami, Homestead. A little bit of Daytona in Miami, the Grand Prix is a premier racing event, attracting celebrities, Indy car drivers, and curious spectators who get a buzz off the smell of gasoline. Get tickets early, as this event sells out quickly. Call tel. 305/250-5200. Late March.

NASDAQ 100 Open, Key Biscayne. Sampras, Agassi, Kournikova, and the Williams sisters are only a few of the Grand Slammers who appear at this, one of the world's foremost tennis tournaments. Tickets for the semifinals and finals are hard to come by, so order early. Call tel. 305/446-2200. End of the month.

April

World Cup Polo Tournament, Palm Beach. The last tournament of the polo season, this event draws the diamond-studded mallet set who gather one more time in the name of scene and sport. Call tel. 561/793-1440. Mid-April.

PGA Seniors Golf Championship, Palm Beach Gardens. This is the oldest and most prestigious of the senior golf tournaments in which aging swingers prove they've still got spunk in their swing. Call tel. 561/624-8400. Mid-April.

Little Acorns International Kite Festival, South Beach. A great event for the kids and kids at heart, this kite festival is a true spectacular in the sky, attracting thousands of expert flyers and their flying works of art from 5th to 15th streets. Kids can build their own kites and scrounge for candy, which is dropped piñata style along the beach. Call tel. 888/298-9815. Free. Third weekend in April.

Sunfest, West Palm Beach. Sleepy downtown West Palm comes alive at the end of April for this street fair and concert, featuring big-name entertainment, food stands, a youth fair, and hordes of people. Admission charges are reasonable, but, unless there's someone performing whom you must see, not always worth the price. Stick to the free nontented area on Clematis Street for excellent people-watching. For information, call tel. 561/659-5992. Late April.

Texaco Key West Classic, Key West. This catch-and-release fishing competition offers $50,000 in prizes to be divided among the top anglers in three divisions: sailfish, marlin, and light tackle. You won't believe the size of some of these catches. Call tel. 305/294-4042. Late April.

May

McDonald's Air & Sea Show, Fort Lauderdale. It's a tough call as far as what's more crowded--the air, the sea, or the ground, which attracts over 2 million onlookers craning their necks for a view of big-name airwolves such as the Blue Angels and the Thunderbirds. In addition to the various planes doing tricks in the sky, you'll also see battleships pull into port. Remember: It's an air and sea show, not a car show, so consider leaving yours at the hotel. Call tel. 954/467-3555. Early May.

Cajun Zydeco Crawfish Festival, Fort Lauderdale. A little bit of Nawlins in South Florida. Enjoy the crawfish delicacies at this 3-day festival paying homage to all things hot, spicy, and, er, crunchy. Call tel. 954/761-5934. Early May.

Arabian Nights Festival, Hialeah. A colorful celebration of Hialeah's Moorish architecture, this festival features a mix of entertainment, food, and fantasy inspired by Arabian culture. Call tel. 305/758-4166. Mid-May.

June

Coconut Grove Goombay Festival, Coconut Grove. They may say it's better in the Bahamas, but that's questionable after you've attended Miami's own Bahamian bash, featuring lots of dancing in the streets, marching bands, scorching Caribbean temperatures, and the ever buzz-worthy and refreshing Goombay punch. For information, call tel. 305/372-9966. Early June.

July

Independence Day, Miami. Watch as one of the nation's most spectacular skylines is further illuminated with the masterful display of professional fireworks throughout the entire city. Best views are from Key Biscayne and Bayfront Park. For specific information on July 4 events, check the local newspapers.

Lower Keys Underwater Music Fest, Looe Key. When you hear the phrase "the music and the madness," you may want to think of this amusing aural aquatic event in which boaters head out to the underwater reef at the Looe Key Marine Sanctuary, drop speakers into the water, and pipe in all sorts of music, creating a disco-diving spectacular. Considering the heat at this time of year, underwater is probably the coolest place for a concert. Call tel. 800/872-3722. Early July.

Mic cosukee Everglades Festival, West Miami (close to the Everglades). South Florida's Native American community celebrates its own unique heritage with music, food, and fanfare including shriek-inducing alligator wrestling. Call tel. 305/223-8380 for prices and information. Early and late July.

Hemingway Days Festival, Key West. The legendary author is alive and well--many times over--at this celebration of the literary world's most famous papa, to which eerily accurate Hemingway clones flock in the hopes of winning the big look-alike contest. Call tel. 305/294-4440. Mid- to late July.

Wine and All That Jazz, Boca Raton. Though the experts may recommend water as the ideal summer thirst quencher, the organizers of this event prefer the fruits of the vine. Sip over 100 vintages to the tune of jazz at this swank wine-tasting party. Call tel. 561/278-0424. Late July.

Beethoven by the Beach, Fort Lauderdale. The Florida Philharmonic takes Beethoven to the beach with its summer music festival, featuring symphonies, chamber pieces, and piano concertos. Call tel. 954/561-2997.

August

This month is possibly the most scorching, which is why event planners try to avoid it altogether. Your best bet? The beach, the pool, or anywhere with air-conditioning.

September

Festival Miami, Miami. The University of Miami School of Music presents a 4-week program of performing arts, classical, jazz, and world music. For a schedule of performances, call tel. 305/284-4940. Mid-September.

October

Caribbean Carnival, Miami. If you've never been to the Caribbean, then this can be your introduction to the colorful, multicultural island nations of Trinidad, Jamaica, Haiti, St. Vincent, Barbados, and St. Croix, as natives from the islands participate in a masquerade parade in their traditional costumes. Call tel. 305/653-1877. Early October.

Columbus Day Regatta, Miami. On the day that Columbus discovered America, the party-hearty of today's Florida discover their fellow Americans' birthday suits--this bacchanalia in the middle of Biscayne Bay encourages participants in this so-called regatta (there is a boat race at some point during the day, but most people are too preoccupied to notice) to strip down to their bare necessities and party at the sandbar in the middle of the bay. You may not need a bathing suit, but you will need a boat to get out to where all the action is. Consider renting one on Key Biscayne, which is the closest to the sandbar.

Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, Fort Lauderdale. The world's largest boat show, this one's got boats of every size, shape, and status symbol displayed at the scenic Bahia Mar marina and four other locations in the area. Traffic-phobes beware. Call tel. 954/764-7642. Mid-October.

Fantasy Fest, Key West. Mardi Gras takes a Floridian holiday as the streets of Key West are overtaken by wildly costumed revelers who have no shame and no parental guidance. This weeklong, hedonistic, X-rated Halloween party is not for children under 18. Make reservations in Key West early, as hotels tend to book up quickly during this event. Call tel. 305/296-1817. Last week of October.

November

Blues Festival at Riverwalk, Fort Lauderdale. The scenic landscape of downtown Fort Lauderdale's Riverwalk will make your own personal blues go away, but you'll want to immerse yourself in the music of big-name performers who sing and play the blues here at various venues. Call tel. 954/761-5934. Early November.

South Florida International Auto Show, Miami Beach. Cars are everywhere--literally--at this massive auto show, displaying the latest and most futuristic modes of transportation on the market. Try to take public transportation or call a cab to get to this gridlocked event. Call tel. 305/947-5950. Early November.

Jiffy Lube Miami 300 Weekend of NASCAR, Homestead. World-class racing takes place on Miami's world-class 344-acre motor sports complex. Rev your engines early for tickets to this event. Call tel. 305/230-5200. Mid-November.

Miami Book Fair International, downtown Miami. Bibliophiles, literati, and some of the world's most prestigious and prolific authors descend upon downtown Miami for a week-long homage to the written word, which also happens to be the largest book fair in the United States. The weekend street fair is the most well attended of the entire event, in which regular folk mix with wordsmiths such as Tom Wolfe and Jane Smiley while indulging in snacks, antiquarian books, and literary gossip. All lectures are free, but they fill up quickly, so get there early. Call tel. 305/237-3258 for lecture schedules. Mid-November.

White Party Week, Miami and Fort Lauderdale. This week-long series of parties to benefit AIDS research is built around the main event, the White Party, which takes place at Villa Vizcaya and sells out as early as a year in advance. Philanthropists and celebrities such as Calvin Klein and David Geffen join thousands of white-clad, mostly gay men (and some women) in what has become one of the world's hottest and hardest-to-score party tickets. Call tel. 305/667-9296 or visit www.whitepartyweek.com for a schedule of parties and events. Thanksgiving week.

Santa's Enchanted Forest, Miami. Billing itself as the world's largest Christmas theme park, Santa's Enchanted Forest is an assault on the eyes, with thousands of lights lining Tropical Park plus rides, games, and lots of food. This is a great place to bring younger kids. Call tel. 305/893-0090. Early November to mid-January.

December

Winterfest Boat Parade, Fort Lauderdale. People who complain that the holiday season just isn't as festive in South Florida as it is in colder parts of the world haven't been to this spectacular boat parade along the Intracoastal Waterways. Forget decking the halls. At this parade, the decks are decked out in magnificent holiday regalia as they gracefully--and boastfully--glide up and down the water. If you're not on a boat, the best views are from waterfront restaurants or anywhere you can squeeze in along the water. Call tel. 954/767-0686. Mid-December.

More Miami Beach Guidebook Articles

Source: Frommer's South Florida including Miami and Keys, 3rd Edition